‘Every Chef Must Train At This Spot’: Humble Turkish Eatery Ranks 4th on Ranking of London’s Best Dining Destinations.

Whenever compiling a roll of London’s top eateries, one might anticipate well-known award-winning venues. But, tucked high among these gastronomic titans is a modest salonu located in a distant part of north London.

An Unexpected Honour

The small Turkish eatery, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the city by a influential food magazine. This honour has made the owners utterly shocked.

“I’m utterly shocked,” says a owner’s son, referring to his parents’ dedication that led to their humble place securing such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

The little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular spot, has retained much of its former charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking performance, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the food, and this establishment certainly excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in slowly. When the savoury mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in less syrup than is typical, resulting in it a deeper, more aromatic and not overly sweet profile.

Rising Above the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant full for under £25, similar experiences at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

The Ethos of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to show what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Dedication

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to echo outside its own doors. “I believe numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the greater importance of this gastronomic achievement.